adding lnb's and switch to existing dish

[BGonaSTICK]

The 13v/18v is the output LNB control voltage from the receiver, and thus the input voltage to the motor.

This is standard, so I assume the receiver will step up the voltage no problem. It would be as useful as a chocolate teapot if it didn't

I've forgetten your setup, but I guess you're using 12V because you're running from a vehicle battery?

[wobblywill]

sorry your right it is v13/h18

the manual is somewhat confusing for a virgin ( you want to put that where?? ), the bit i found reads

para "4.3.5 0/12V switch, by turning this function on or off, the receiver will either supply or not supply 12V from this terminal" :quote: (does not give any clue as to why i would want to activate this function??) running from mains not car battery

thanks again m8

wibble

[BGonaSTICK]

Oh, OK - with you now.

Yes, the receiver supplies either 13 or 18 volts down the coax to switch the LNB between polarisation modes.

The 12V thing is quite interesting. It's sort of historical, but still has modern-day uses. It's basically a flagging mechanism. When the receiver is on, the terminal is live at 12V. When it's off, the potential is 0V. This can be used to signal to another piece of kit.

Moving from 0V to 12V says 'hey, I've woken up!' which could trigger a coaxial priority switch, or prompt another piece of kit to switch on, like a VBOX, separate decoder, another STB or virtually anything else. It's sort of been superceded by 'pin 8' in a SCART socket which does much the same thing if enabled in the firmware.

[wobblywill]

ah, gotcha, will probably revisit this topic (12v) in another thread if i need to

now then, about this problem you have with my stylish range of chocolate teapots



wibble