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#1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2007
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Hi All,
I have opened up the unit and the C14 cap is rounded. The problem I have is I have no idea how to remove and replace it. Can anyone offer a quick lesson on what needs to be done? I would be most grateful. Regards, Al |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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You will have to take the psu out and de-solder it from underneath
Or just cut it off at the legs and solder a new one to the old legs but make sure you keep the polarity the same |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Type in "How to de-solder" on U-Tube.
I had same problem some time ago when i tried to remove capacitor by purely melting solder with iron. Wasn't very successful because you will need some type of de-soldering media to absorb the solder leaving the capacitor free to be removed.Check out U-tube,various useful downloads there to teach you.Cheaper than having it repaired at a shop too!! Regards |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Becareful when removing the capacitor, as it will still be holding a charge. |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I been out to buy the capacitor and what they have given me looks like the one from C13. And on closer inspection both C13 and C14 are rounded. Any ideas? |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Technology Forums
Join Date: May 2007
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You will need a solder sucker pump tool to eject the bad cap from the board.
Heat yer soldering iron up and then touch it to the solder on the cap ur removing when you see it starting to melt u then press a button on the pump and it will suck the melted solder to the tool, do this on both legs and then when the solder is removed then take the cap out and replace it with ur new one, very important, make sure that you polarize it correctly as ronster mentioned, if ur unsure on this then make a diagram of how the original cap is seated and make sure yer put it back the same way. If your sure it was cap 14 that had deffo shorted then when yer put the new one in the psu should then power up the unit, BUT it is by no means certain that just by replacing a cap that thats the psu fixed becuse it could also be some other components that have blown. Anyhow after yer replaced this cap and it still don't work then also check the resitor at the side of cap 21 cos last one I repaired it had blown 2 caps and the resistor mentioned was burned out, so also look at this resistor cos if blown it will show burn marks on it and black marks. AJ
Last edited by jambutty; 05-08-09 at 07:36 PM. Reason: spelllllling |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
when soldering in new capacitor ensure polarity is correct, the longer wire protruding from base of cap is posiitive . |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Technology Forums
Join Date: May 2007
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Yea yer can do it that way by putting iron to leg of cap and then genly pulling cap out with a small pair of long nose pliers but when I used to do it this way I used to snap the leg off the cap and then a leg would get stuck in board, but best bet if yer doing repairs often is to buy a solder suction pump, they are about £2 from maplins and it's a long tube gadget on a spring and yer press it down and then when yer solder is melted yer then press a button and it sucks the melted solder up in the tube, this way is easier cos it always does a clean job of removing the solder and then the component can be quite easily removed from the board.
AJ
Last edited by jambutty; 06-08-09 at 12:58 AM. Reason: spelinnnnnnnnnggg |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Thanks for all the advice here but as I say it looks like C13 and C14 are blown (rounded).
I have also found that the big blue C5 capacitor has a flat round black thing with (looks like) NTO 100-9 on it and that seems to have hard yellow stuff coming out of it and its stuck to the big blue C5 cap. Any ideas? |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Technology Forums
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Thanks for all the advice here but as I say it looks like C13 and C14 are blown (rounded).
I have also found that the big blue C5 capacitor has a flat round black thing with (looks like) NTO 100-9 on it and that seems to have hard yellow stuff coming out of it and its stuck to the big blue C5 cap. Any ideas? Bottom line on your problem is this mate, Unless the capacitor is bulging or showing burn marks or leaking then you can not accuratly know if the cap is shorted out, you will have to take the cap out of the board and test it with a multitester (put the probes to both legs and you should get a reading, you then reverse the probes and you should also get a reading) in other words a capacitor should read both ways on the tester, if it only reads 1 way then the cap as deffo shorted and needs replacing. As for the hard yellow stuff coming out you mentioned, this is a special wax they use to cement it to the board and it is suposed to be there, this isn't leakage, so unless your fluent on testing caps with a multitester then I'm affraid yer not gonna get very far on this. AJ |
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