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#11 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
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No luck with the reflow of PL5 i'm afraid. Is it worth totally desoldering the connector, removing the old solder and resoldering it back in place with fresh?
I'll try the other things in the document you linked to when I pick my multimeter up from work tomorrow. Thanks again. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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It's worth a try yes. I haven't done it personally but i've spoke to people that have and they have been successful.
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#14 (permalink) |
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Ok, i've used the guide I was given the link to and can confirm the following.
1. The PSU is supplying the required 33V. 2. One of the Tuners (TUN400) had a voltage of around 33-34V when tested. 3. The other Tuner (TUN100) had a voltage which initially read at slightly under 20V and then proceeded to drop. When it got down to around 1V it then jumped back up again. Unfortunately I don't have a test CIM so i'm not quite sure how to proceed. Is it worth going any further? Is the measurement on TUN100 suggesting it would be worth removing the SMD caps on TUN100? Thanks for the help thus far. I'm learning a fair bit, which is always good. |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Have you set the frequency in EM. Simple thing to forget after pulling jumper. There has also been reports of some frequencys changing as part of N3 rollout
__________________
If you cant fix it with a hammer it's an electrical fault |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Unfortunately I can't even get into the EM. It displays PACE when first switched on and then rapidly changes to TUNE.
Holding the up and down arrows has no effect at all it seems. Edit: And i've tried it with the coax feed both in and out - doesn't matter either way. Last edited by wiredworm; 01-02-10 at 10:37 PM. |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Follow the guide mate, removing all the surface mount caps specified. Failing that you'll need to replace the electrolytics
Edit: Ah ok that guide's rubbish will get better one Code:
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=UAN2NDWV Last edited by sr20; 09-03-10 at 07:13 PM. |
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