Paraclipse 3.8 on H to H mount restoration/installation

Discussion in 'Satellite TV' started by martin-f, Oct 16, 2017.

  1. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Thanks to @lincsat I am now the proud owner of the above dish many thanks Ian :)

    The dish and H to H is going to be fully restored, the H to H is belt driven (i will be converting this to chain drive) so the dish is from or before 1987, I think this one is from 1985 larger mesh holes,

    I'm not concerned about the larger holes the dish will still perform quite well in KU band, after intense testing I will replace mesh with the smaller type for comparison,

    The dish is in good shape it wont take me long to get this fully restored, the motor will be most time consuming locating new needed parts,

    The installation is going to be something special, basically when its not in use it will tuck away below my fence, when in use it will rise to around 12ft (dish centre) above the ground,

    A few pictures of the dish and mount.
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  2. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Unloaded the car today lots of parts to clean in preparation for spraying,
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    The button hook will not be used I will be making new arms and a adjustable feed adaptor,
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    I will be fully restoring the motor new bushes will be pressed in brushes and armature will be checked and replaced if necessary,
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    What a motor this is Wow it makes the 1224 look like a kids toy.
     
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  3. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Stripped the motor this afternoon everything was stuck as expected very pleased how its come apart :), anyone who's messed with steel bolts in aluminium will know they get stuck, you should always use lots copper slip on installation,
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    The bushes now burnt was made from nylon, these will be replaced with oilite bushes,

    The main spigot needs a good clean and re-tapping
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    I've yet to check the motor/gearbox but have every confidence it will be ok maybe new brushes, I used to repair similar motors so its no problem if it does have any faults.

    I need to replace the belt drive to chain that's no issue my son in law is manager of a company that supplies parts needed, including oilite bushes :),
    IMG_0185.JPG
     
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  4. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    I've picked oilite bushes up, I need to clean spigot up a little more,
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    The bolts sheared that holds the side plates so these need drilling out,
    IMG_0204.JPG

    Hopefully pick the chain and sprockets up next week.
     
  5. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Perfect, unsure why they used nylon bushes oilite is far better.
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  6. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Looks like they wanted to sell you a new chain wheel when the nylon bush had worn out :eek:,
    For reference purposes hfhfhfgewe456uii.PNG gggggfffddsssa.PNG hhhhhh.PNG


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    Capture444.PNG
     
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  7. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Hi, ive been trying to remove the pole cap from the pole this afternoon its proving to be hard work, its been soaking in household ammonia for the last few days,
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    So near but so far,
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    I've left it soaking again over night hopefully finish it tomorrow,

    The ali pole and cap is standard on the paraclipse, the aluminium pole should sleeve over from memory a 3.5 inch pole if your ever get the chance to work on this H to H don't forget to remove the pin near the top it goes through the cap and pole to lock it in place,

    I wont be using the ali pole I will be going direct with a 4.5 inch pole adaptor to 6 inch box section for stability, the picture below will give you an idea how it is from new, I might also do my inclined tracking as below,
    azel.jpg
     
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  8. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    I've been doing a few jobs on the dish today, main job was to test the motor,
    IMG_0237.JPG

    She's like a Rolls Royce :), hopefully pick the cogs up tomorrow and get the motor built back up.
     
  9. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    More work done, checked the dish ribs for anything misshaped all perfect :), pressed bottom oilite bushes in and cleaned shaft, just having a cuppa and popping out to try and locate gearbox sprockets.

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  10. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    I've picked the sprockets up, I need to drill the sides ones out to fit the pins, I will sandwich the outer sprockets with the nylon rollers.
    IMG_0250.JPG IMG_0252.JPG
     
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  11. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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  12. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Old belt drive sprocket removed, new chain drive installed.
    IMG_0254.JPG IMG_0257.JPG
     
  13. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Hi picked more sprockets up today, looking at beavs2112 video E/W takes 2 minutes 30 seconds with a seven toothed sprocket, that's ok I guess but if you want to really fine tune into them weak signals the longer it takes from end to end the smaller the small steps will be,

    I am aiming for four minutes 30 seconds / five minutes, I wont be in any rush to get from one end of the arc to the other, I would sooner have very fine tuning,

    I will use another dish for quick zapping,



    IMG_0271.JPG

    With the above sprockets I can now gear it to my needs:)
     
  14. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Hi more work done today, the mag drill made easy work off drilling the sheared bolts out :),
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    Cut the spigot thread off with the angle grinder, work had been done here in the past the thread was drilled and welded off centre and only M8 thread,

    I will finish drilling it tomorrow and weld a m12 thread in.

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  15. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    I've stripped the gearbox from the motor, everything looks in good shape, gasket and the old grease is still good,

    I will repack it with more grease later today then check the motor brushes,

    If you ever get the chance to work on this motor/gearbox be carful not to lose the little ball bearings,

    They certainly don't make things like they used too, its a very high quality unit.
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  16. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Drilled and welded a M10 thread in in the end, its still slightly off centre but its no detriment, main reason for me alter this was to get a larger thread in there, I might need to work from this point to face the dish up in the air for when its not in use, I'm also considering doing some EME at some point in the future,
    IMG_0298.JPG IMG_0302.JPG IMG_0304.JPG

    Checked the brushes and there like new :),

    Sprockets need some fabrication this is nearly always the case different size spigots and keys,

    The centre hole needs drilling out to M12 and a key needs broaching in,

    Key broaching kits are quite expensive, its something I don't use often so not spending money on a kit, I have a idea in mind on how to broach my own key in :eek: TBC ,


    Here's some information regarding re-gearing sprockets that I spoke about earlier,
     
  17. martin-f

    martin-f Well-Known Member Staff Member

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    Sprocket drilled to correct size it just needs keying, my intension is to weld three metal cutting jigsaw blades together then finish it off with a file, ive done it before many years ago,

    New nuts and bolts picked up I couldn't get everything I needed, I will try a different supplier tomorrow.
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  18. beavs2112

    beavs2112 New Member

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    I know right :)
     
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  19. beavs2112

    beavs2112 New Member

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    Hi mate. Here's my recommendation for your Titanium ASC1 to Paraclypse motor hookup. I would also recommend doing what Titanium suggests about adding capacitors and using shielded wire for the sensor hookup.

    This is from his ASC1 installation instructions "DiSEqC Positioner Install Hints:
    1. Connect a .01 µF, 50 volt (minimum rated) capacitor between the M1 and M2 wires at the actuator motor. The capacitor minimizes the motor RF noise from interfering with the sensor and servo control circuits. Make sure it is not a polarity sensitive type capacitor like an electrolytic.
    2. Not applicable
    3.
    Always use proper gauge and shielded wires for the sensor and servo control. Connect the shield drain wire to ground only at one end of the cable run. Do not use unshielded wire groups typically sold for sprinkler or thermostat control. Unshielded control and sensor wires will result in positioning and control errors."

    He seems to favor 14 AWG for both the motor and sensor wires but I think 14 AWG is way too much overkill for the sensor circuit side. Its not carrying much current or voltage like the motor side is. You could get away with using 20AWG for the sensor wires. On my setup I ran two bundles of wire to my motor. One bundle of 2X14AWG wires for the motor and a smaller 2X18AWG shielded wires for the sensor. If you still have sensor errors from the ASC1 try the other white wire or both white wires and not the red one. I'm 99.999% sure yours is a reed switch motor like mine since it seems exactly the same vintage so you shouldn't need the OHR adaptor at all.
    Hope this helps.
     

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  20. beavs2112

    beavs2112 New Member

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    As the saying goes "imitation is the sincerest form of flattery". This satellite motor design was what DH Antenna copied for their H-H commercial version 60″ H to H Powered | DH Satellite
     
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